A GUIDE TO EATING IN chiang mai

"Thailand's Best Food City?"

Thailand's second biggest city straddles the northern half pushing up towards Laos and Myanmar. Famed for their temples and old city, most people flock here with a bursting tourist itinerary eager to not miss a single pagoda, I came with an inexhaustible list of places to eat and drink, and would be happy if I even managed half.

Landing in Chiang Mai after spending time in Bangkok is always a pleasure. The air holds a balmy calm that Bangkok struggles to deliver with its chaotic roads and incessant heat. You can actually ditch your public transport and walk around most of the city since a vast majority of the good spots are within a 2 mile radius. Luckily I had been here on numerous occasions, and met some chefs who wrote long lists of spots I "had to try", and had the help of some locals to guide me to the right watering holes when the sun had set across the moat. 

Here in no particular order, places worthy of your baht in exchange for a full stomach, and places worthy of your baht in exchange for a cheery disposition:

THE BEST FOOD IN CHIANG MAI

MAADAE SLOW FISH KITCHEN

Unspeakably good fish, great sour/spicy curries, crab fried rice, squid salads, literally everything here is pure fire. Do not miss this, call ahead because it's always full.

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SP CHICKEN

A rite of passage to Chiang Mai. Go here, order the chicken, somtum, ribs, rice. You won't be disappointed.

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Khao Soi LUNG PRAKID 

Test your resolve standing in the direct sun waiting for a table, fill out your order on the small sheet of paper, give it to the chef then stand in literal fire and wait. It is worth it. Delicious Khao Soi, so much better than the other places in town (unless you take a taxi to Prince), this is my absolute go-to.  

​p.s. Their beef can be chewy, but the broth and noodles are fire.

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Mit Mai 

Yunnanese food in Chiang Mai ? Damn straight. Get the cucumber chicken salad that you mix yourself in the seasoning bowl, try some aniseed tasting sausage, grab some seasonal greens and you'll be one step closer to culinary paradise.

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KRUA YA

There are three reasons to visit this place. 1. The food is excellent. 2. The scenery is a welcome relief from Chiang Mai. 3. Asama coffee is next door.

​Do it!

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NONG BEE BURMESE FOOD

Salads are what this place is known for. I recommend the tea leaf and young tamarind salads. The pork curry is also worthy of exploration.

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LARB TON YANG

Fronted by only females, this dizzyingly large temple to larb on the outskirts of Chiang Mai is a genuine riot. Expect hundreds of locals tucking into spicy salads, guzzling beer. Get your google translate out because the menu's are not in English and nobody speaks it either. Yes, OG spot!

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Ramen Sanmai 

Legit Tonkotsu ramen when you cannot fight the cravings. Their broth is packed with flavour but not too fatty, the egg is perfect and their chashu is desire.

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Khao Soi Mei Sai 

Of all the Khao Soi's I had eaten in Chiang Mai over the years, this was a strong second place after the inimitable Prince. Rich, umami-laden broth, not too creamy, not too watery. Superb noodles and the most tender beef. All for the paupers sum of 1 Euro 20 Cents. 

Life truly can be the gift that keeps giving.  

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SOM TUM UDON 

Fresh, made-to-order, delicious som tam. The chicken is worth ordering too, just remember to ask for everything spicy because they will tone it down heavily for tourists.

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HUEN MUAN JAI

Northen Thai food doesn't come much better than this. Expect super long waits on weekends and they don't take reservations. It's worth it.

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Jok Sompet

Delicious, luxurious, rich, rice porridge, speckled with fresh ginger, scallions, condiments and that soft poached egg just begging you to shatter it's thin membrane and allow the rich, orange divinity to flow unto your bowl and colour your offering. Sit back, scoop up that velvety love, let it sink to further regions of your digestinal tract, and know that you are putting a band-aid on a sore that hasn't appeared yet.

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ACCHA RESTAURANT

Indian food to summon the spirits of the motherland. Located in Nimman, heart straight outta Delhi. 

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Places to drink

​7 Pounds

At first I questioned whether google map's had lied to me. I went from a busy street down a tiny lane with trees and bushes on either side. I trusted my instincts and kept going another 100 meters before the road turned and lights appeared in the distance. There stood 7 Pounds in all it's time-aged glory. A bar predominantly geared towards live-music, but if you get there early you can skip the crowds and the tinnitus inducing noise and sip a cold Leo in the privacy of your own thoughts.

The moment the lanky American took to the stage and started guitar-wanking was when I dialed a Grab and fled the scene like a suspect. 

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My Beer Friend

For those of you with moustaches and a thirst for craft beer, then there are two places that are recommended in Chiang Mai. Firstly this small spot that's a stone's throw away from WDLOTM, offering a few different beers on tap and a large selection in the refrigerators. The service is friendly and the music isn't loud. 

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My Bar

My Bar can be a bit hit & miss. However, the bartenders here surely qualify as Thailands friendliest. The second night you come back you'll be greeted with hugs and high fives. Musically it swings between classic rock to old skool metal which is fine with me. 

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The North Gate Jazz Co-op

Opinions are split on this place. In my opinion the music blows, the clientele are elephant pants wearing annoying millenials and slack-packers, but everyone is different and some people will need this slice of turd in their lives. 

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All these recommendations are just personal opinions and things change, chefs get fired, places open-close, relocate, so take it all with a pinch of MSG and discover your own gems too. But please do try a few of these, they have been researched exhaustively.